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Concept
Kamet
Summary
Kamet (कामेत) is the second-highest mountain in the Garhwal region of Uttarakhand, India, after Nanda Devi. It lies in the Chamoli District of Uttarakhand.
Its appearance resembles a giant pyramid topped by a flat summit area with two peaks.
Due to its position near the Tibetan Plateau, Kamet is very remote and not as accessible as some Himalayan peaks. It also receives a great deal of wind from the Plateau. However, by modern standards, it is a relatively straightforward ascent for such a high mountain. Early explorers of the region faced long approach marches of around from Ranikhet through dense mountain forest; access is easier today.
While attempts to climb Kamet began in 1855, the first ascent was not made until 1931 by Frank Smythe, Eric Shipton, R.L. Holdsworth, Dr Raymond Greene, the expedition's doctor, Bill Birnie and Lewa Sherpa, members of a British expedition. Kamet was the first summit over to be climbed, and was the highest summit reached until the first ascent of Nanda Devi five years later. (However, far higher non-summit altitudes had been reached on the north side of Mount Everest in the 1920s.)
The standard route begins from the East Kamet (or Purbi Kamet) Glacier, ascending via Meade's Col (c. 7,100m/23,300 ft), the saddle between Kamet and its northern outlier Abi Gamin. From Meade's Col the route ascends the northeast edge of the north face. The ascent to Meade's col involves steep gullies, a rock wall, and several glacier climbs. Five camps are usually placed en route. The final ascent to the summit involves steep snow, possibly icy.
Kamet is surrounded by three principal neighboring or subsidiary peaks:
Mukut Parbat, 7,242 m (23,760 ft) Ranked 97th, prominence = 840 m, , northwest of Kamet. First ascent 1951 (see below). The lower of Mukut Parbat's twin summit has an elevation of 7,130 m (23,392 ft).
Abi Gamin, 7,355 m (24,130 ft), prominence = 217 m , north-northeast of Kamet; connected to Kamet by Meade's Col. First ascent 1950.
Mana Peak, 7,272 m (23,858 ft) Ranked 92nd, prominence = 720 m, , south-southeast of Kamet.
Official source
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