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Concept
Émollient
Résumé
A moisturizer, or emollient, is a cosmetic preparation used for protecting, moisturizing, and lubricating the skin. These functions are normally performed by sebum produced by healthy skin. The word "emollient" is derived from the Latin verb mollire, to soften.
In the human body, water constantly evaporates from the deeper layers of the skin through an effect known as transepidermal water loss (TEWL). By regulating its water content, human skin naturally maintains a dry, easily shed surface as a barrier against pathogens, dirt, or damage, while protecting itself from drying out and becoming brittle and rigid. The ability to retain moisture depends on the lipid bilayer between the dead skin cells.
Moisturizers modify the rate of water loss, with active ingredients of moisturizers falling into one of two categories: occlusives and humectants.
Occlusives form a hydrophobic coating on the surface of the skin, keeping moisture from escaping. The more occlusive the formulation, the greater the effect. Ointments are more occlusive than aqueous creams, which are more occlusive than lotion. Water loss through the skin is normally about 4–8 g/(m2⋅h). A layer of petrolatum applied to normal skin can reduce that loss by 50–75% for several hours. Oils naturally produced by the human body moisturize through this same mechanism.
Humectants are hydrophilic and absorb water. They can absorb this water from the air and moisturize the skin when the humidity is greater than 70%, but more commonly they draw water from the dermis into the epidermis, making skin dryer. A study published in Skin Research and Technology in 2001 found no link between humectants and moisturizing effect. When used in practical applications, they are almost always combined with occlusives.
Moisturizers often contain water, which acts as a temporary hydration agent as well as a way for the absorption of some components and evaporation of the moisturizer. They also help smoothen the skin by plugging gaps between dead skin cells.
There are many different types of moisturizers.
Source officielle
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