Concept
Dispersion (water waves)
Concepts associés (18)
Surface wave
In physics, a surface wave is a mechanical wave that propagates along the interface between differing media. A common example is gravity waves along the surface of liquids, such as ocean waves. Gravity waves can also occur within liquids, at the interface between two fluids with different densities. Elastic surface waves can travel along the surface of solids, such as Rayleigh or Love waves. Electromagnetic waves can also propagate as "surface waves" in that they can be guided along with a refractive index gradient or along an interface between two media having different dielectric constants.
Mild-slope equation
In fluid dynamics, the mild-slope equation describes the combined effects of diffraction and refraction for water waves propagating over bathymetry and due to lateral boundaries—like breakwaters and coastlines. It is an approximate model, deriving its name from being originally developed for wave propagation over mild slopes of the sea floor. The mild-slope equation is often used in coastal engineering to compute the wave-field changes near harbours and coasts.
Onde
vignette|Propagation d'une onde. Une onde est la propagation d'une perturbation produisant sur son passage une variation réversible des propriétés physiques locales du milieu. Elle se déplace avec une vitesse déterminée qui dépend des caractéristiques du milieu de propagation. vignette|Une vague s'écrasant sur le rivage. Il existe trois principaux types d'ondes : les ondes mécaniques se propagent à travers une matière physique dont la substance se déforme. Les forces de restauration inversent alors la déformation.
Waves and shallow water
When waves travel into areas of shallow water, they begin to be affected by the ocean bottom. The free orbital motion of the water is disrupted, and water particles in orbital motion no longer return to their original position. As the water becomes shallower, the swell becomes higher and steeper, ultimately assuming the familiar sharp-crested wave shape. After the wave breaks, it becomes a wave of translation and erosion of the ocean bottom intensifies.
Relation de dispersion
En physique théorique, une relation de dispersion est une relation entre la pulsation et le vecteur d'onde d'une onde monochromatique. Par extension, la dualité onde-corpuscule de la physique quantique conduit à l'introduction de relation de dispersion pour une particule, comme relation entre son énergie et sa quantité de mouvement . Un milieu non dispersif est caractérisé par un indice indépendant de la pulsation. La relation de dispersion s'écritavec le vecteur d'onde.
Group velocity
The group velocity of a wave is the velocity with which the overall envelope shape of the wave's amplitudes—known as the modulation or envelope of the wave—propagates through space. For example, if a stone is thrown into the middle of a very still pond, a circular pattern of waves with a quiescent center appears in the water, also known as a capillary wave. The expanding ring of waves is the wave group or wave packet, within which one can discern individual waves that travel faster than the group as a whole.
Énergie des vagues
L'énergie des vagues, ou énergie houlomotrice, est une énergie marine utilisant l'énergie contenue dans le mouvement de la houle, soit les oscillations de la surface de l'eau. Cette énergie ne doit pas être confondue avec l'énergie marémotrice, laquelle utilise l'énergie des marées. La faisabilité de son exploitation a été étudiée, en particulier au Portugal, au Royaume-Uni et en Australie.
Free surface
In physics, a free surface is the surface of a fluid that is subject to zero parallel shear stress, such as the interface between two homogeneous fluids. An example of two such homogeneous fluids would be a body of water (liquid) and the air in the Earth's atmosphere (gas mixture). Unlike liquids, gases cannot form a free surface on their own. Fluidized/liquified solids, including slurries, granular materials, and powders may form a free surface. A liquid in a gravitational field will form a free surface if unconfined from above.